ISHINCA - TOCLLARAJU - ALPAMAYO - QITARARAJU
Duration: 13 Days/12 Nights
Highest Point: 6040m.
Route: Expedition Ishinca, Tocllaraju, Alpamayo & Quitaraju
Recommended Season: May - September
Number of Persons per Guide: 3 - 2
These mountains are part of the Cordillera Blanca and are within the area of the Huascarán National Park. Within the Ishinca valley we find three peaks that can be climbed such as: Ishinca, Urus and Tocllaraju mountains, these in turn belong to the Chinchay massif. On this occasion as part of the tour program, we have designed to do the following, first climb the Ishinca and then the Tocllaraju, although in this same valley the Urus could be climbed; but it is less interesting and many tourists choose these mountains to start with an easy acclimatization before climbing any other more technical mountain or that is more than 6000 meters above sea level, such are the cases of the 5947m Alpamayo mountains. and Quitaraju 6040m., the first one without exceeding 6 thousand meters is a technical mountain to climb and the second one that exceeds 6 thousand meters needs much more skill and technique to reach the summit than Ishinca and Tocllaraju.
Day 01: Huaraz- Pashpa- Base Camp 4350 m
On our first day of the tour, from the city of Huaraz, we will pick you up at your hotel and drive to the Northeast to the town of Cochapampa, here our friends the donkey drivers will wait for us with the donkeys. From here we will begin our adventure walking among tree forests of Quenual to reach the base camp. The walking time from the beginning to the camp is approximately 4 hours.
Day 02: Base Camp- Ishinca Summit 5530m. - Base Camp
This time, we will begin our ascent by averaging at 3 am, taking a zigzag path to the beginning of the glacier; here we put all the necessary equipment to begin our ascent towards the summit. From the summit you can enjoy a panoramic view of many peaks around that motivate you to take many photos, after a good rest and eat a little we will start our descent to return to base camp.
Day 03: Base Camp – Moraine Camp 5100m
Today is a short day, so we will leave the base camp a little later, almost along the stretch, we will walk along a zigzag path for an average of 4 hours until we reach the 5100m moraine camp, where we will install our camp.
Day 04: Moraine Camp- Tocllaraju Summit 6034 m. - Base Camp
Today is a challenging day, especially for those who have never been over 6 thousand meters, here could be the first, we will begin the ascent at 1 in the morning on a large glacier until we reach the first wall of at least 50 m having an inclination of 55-65 °; After climbing it, we will reach a ridge from where you can see Conchucos Alley, we will continue ascending and we will reach the summit of this colossal mountain and as a reward we will have a splendid views of numerous peaks. After having a relaxing break and taking many pictures, we will descend to the moraine camp and in the afternoon, we will be returning to the base camp. This day will take an average of 6 to 7 hours of walking.
Day 05: Base Camp- Pashpa - Huaraz
We return to the city of Huaraz, after several days on the mountain, everyone wants to return and have some contact with civilization; we will take the same path as the first day and will quickly lead us to the town of Cochapampa where our transport will be waiting to drive us back to the city of Huaraz.
Day 06: Rest day in Huaraz.
Free day, you can choose what to do, such as going for a walk in the city or shopping.
Day 07: Huaraz- Cashapampa 2900m.- Llamacoral 3760m.
From Huaraz we will drive to the Northeast until we reach a town called Cashapampa, Here we will meet the donkeys and the Donkey Driver, who will be waiting for us to transport our luggage in the next two days. From here, we will begin our journey walking through the Santa Cruz Valley until we reach the first camp called Llamacoral 3760m., the walking time is approximately 4 to 5 hours.
Day 08: Llamacoral- Base Camp 4250 m
On the eighth day we will begin our hike along a well-marked path within the Santa Cruz Valley, along the way we are accompanied by the magnificent view of the Taulliraju Mount.; We will also pass by two beautiful lagoons, the Ichikcocha and the Jatuncocha and next to them we observe a great diversity of wild birds typical of the Andean area. After 3 hours of walking in this valley we will take another valley known as the Arhuaycocha Valley, and from here we will walk along a zigzag path to the Alpamayo base camp. In total it will take approximately 5 hours of walking.
Day 09: Base Camp - 5450 m High Camp
From here we begin to ascend on a steeper and more demanding path, this time we take only what is necessary to the high camp, since from here we no longer have the support of donkeys and the Donkey Driver, but the support of porters and the chef who loads all the equipment and food that we will need to make the summits of Alpamayo and Quitaraju. First we cross a rocky path until we reach the glacier, then we will walk through the ice and snow, in some parts it will be steep until we reach 5450m, where we will establish the high camp, from here we can already appreciate the impressive ice wall that we are going to climb The next day to reach our final goal, the summit at 5947m.
Day 10: High Camp - Alpamayo Mountain Summit 5947 m
Our ascent will begin at 1 am, walk until we pass a bergschrund where the technical part begins on the ice until we reach the summit, in a surprisingly incredible climb on a wall of fascinating ice we will reach the summit. Before starting our descent to the high camp we have a small break to photograph the whole beautiful landscape with many peaks around. The average time is about 6 to 7 hours.
Day 11: High Camp - Quitaraju Summit 6040m.
Our ascent will begin at 1 in the morning, we will walk to climb and surf a crack, from here we will begin to climb the technical part on the ice until we reach the top, then as usual we will have a prudential time to rest and take many photos to start our descent through several abseils to the High Camp. The average time is about 6 to 7 hours.
Day 12: High Camp - Base Camp
After making the two summits, our descent starts very early from the high camp to the base camp, unlike the climb this time, the descent is a little easier and faster since we have less weight on it and it is not hard for us to breathe so much, so we arrive in less time and we have the whole afternoon free to rest.
Day 13: Base Camp- Cashapampa- Huaraz
On our last day we take the same path back through the Santa Cruz Valley to the Cashapampa town, here our private transport will be waiting for us to bring us back to the city of Huaraz; but before that, as part of the celebration a beer does not hurt anyone, so everyone cheers. Travel time in transport is approximately 3 hours.
INCLUDED IN THE PRICE:
- All private tours, all private transport and the price system guarantees your departure and only with your team members.
- Official bilingual guides with good manners and social behavior
- Official mountain cooks (Our expeditions always go with guide & cook, amount depending on the amount of participants).
- Good and varied food - best quality (vegetarian option).
- Climbing in the Cordillera Blanca always with accredited guides, no exceptions.
- Porters, donkeys and donkey drivers, amount depending on the amount of participants and nature of your expedition.
- We respect working conditions and local tariffs of staff - no exploitation
- Imported tents from Eureka, Mountain Hard ware, North face and Ferrino brand, 3 person tents for every 2 customers, 2 person tent for every single person.
- All camping equipment and cooking/eating utensils.
- Self inflating Matresses (Thermarest)
- Clients carry day pack only, approx. 12 kg per client on the donkeys
- Safety horses in case of emergency or fatigue (until 6 pax -> 1 horse, until 12 pax -> 2 horses, until 18 pax -> 3 horses …).
- All entrance fees
- First aid kit and oxygen bottle
NOT INCLUDED IN THE PRICE:
- Not mentioned or additional beverages or meals in villages
- Sleeping bag (rental US $ 7.00 per day + US $ 5.00 for obligatory laundry)
- Breakfast on the 1st day (hotel) and dinner on the last day.
- Tip for the staff
- Travel accidents and health insurance
- Return or abortion otherwise as planned itinerary: transport & possible accommodation costs (also for staff)
- Personal mountain equipment.
WHAT TO PACK
CLIMBING GEAR LIST
We understand how important it is for our clients to have the right equipment on their trips. That’s why we provide you with this Climbing Equipment and Gear List, which gives you a detailed inventory of all the items you need during your excursion.
We recommend to always purchasing quality equipment: we realize that this may be expensive, but it can mean the difference between reaching a summit and not.
Some (technical) equipment can be provided by Unlimited Expedition (as indicated below); please let us know beforehand if you bring these items yourself or if you would like to use Unlimited Expedition gear.
- Outer socks, thick wool or polypropylene - 1 pair
- Inner socks, thin silk or polypropylene - 1 pair
- Plastic double mountaineering boots – 1 pair
- Gaiters – 1 pair
- Lightweight polypropylene - 1
- Fleece jacket - 1
- Breathable windproof outer jacket, such as Gore-Tex, with hood - 1
- Polypropylene or underpants - 1 pair
- Fleece pants (full length side zippers recommended) – 1 pair
- Breathable windproof pants such as Gore-Tex – 1 pair
- Mittens, thick fleece - 1 pair
- Gloves, polypropylene or capilene - 1 pair
- Gore-Tex wind shells for mittens- 1 pair
- Balaclava - 1
- Baseball cap - 1
- Down or polar guard sleeping bag comfortable to minus 10 Celsius - 1
- Backpack large (50+ liters) - 1
- Ice axe 70 cm
- Crampons, 12 points
- Ski poles
- Climbing harness
- Climbing helmet