Duration: 13 Days/12 Nights
Highest Point: 6768m.
Route: Expedition Alpamayo & Huascaran
Recommended Season: June - August
Difficulty: Difficult
Number of Persons per Guide: 3 – 2
Day 01: Huaraz- Cashapampa 2900m.- Llamacoral 3760m.
From Huaraz we will drive to the Northeast until we reach a town called Cashapampa, Here we will meet the donkeys and the Donkey Driver, who will be waiting for us to transport our luggage in the next two days. From here, we will begin our journey walking through the Santa Cruz Valley until we reach the first camp called Llamacoral 3760m., the walking time is approximately 4 to 5 hours.
Day 02: Llamacoral- Base Camp 4250 m
On the eighth day we will begin our hike along a well-marked path within the Santa Cruz Valley, along the way we are accompanied by the magnificent view of the Taulliraju Mount.; We will also pass by two beautiful lagoons, the Ichikcocha and the Jatuncocha and next to them we observe a great diversity of wild birds typical of the Andean area. After 3 hours of walking in this valley we will take another valley known as the Arhuaycocha Valley, and from here we will walk along a zigzag path to the Alpamayo base camp. In total it will take approximately 5 hours of walking.
Day 03: Base Camp - 5450 m High Camp
From here we begin to ascend on a steeper and more demanding path, this time we take only what is necessary to the high camp, since from here we no longer have the support of donkeys and the Donkey Driver, but the support of porters and the chef who loads all the equipment and food that we will need to make the summits of Alpamayo and Quitaraju. First we cross a rocky path until we reach the glacier, then we will walk through the ice and snow, in some parts it will be steep until we reach 5450m, where we will establish the high camp, from here we can already appreciate the impressive ice wall that we are going to climb The next day to reach our final goal, the summit at 5947m.
Day 04: High Camp - Alpamayo Mountain Summit 5947 m
Our ascent will begin at 1 am, walk until we pass a bergschrund where the technical part begins on the ice until we reach the summit, in a surprisingly incredible climb on a wall of fascinating ice we will reach the summit. Before starting our descent to the high camp we have a small break to photograph the whole beautiful landscape with many peaks around. The average time is about 6 to 7 hours.
Day 05: High Camp - Base Camp
After making the two summits, our descent starts very early from the high camp to the base camp, unlike the climb this time, the descent is a little easier and faster since we have less weight on it and it is not hard for us to breathe so much, so we arrive in less time and we have the whole afternoon free to rest.
Day 06: Base Camp- Cashapampa- Huaraz
On our last day we take the same path back through the Santa Cruz Valley to the Cashapampa town, here our private transport will be waiting for us to bring us back to the city of Huaraz; but before that, as part of the celebration a beer does not hurt anyone, so everyone cheers. Travel time in transport is approximately 3 hours.
Day 07: Rest day in Huaraz.
Free day, you can choose what to do, such as going for a walk in the city or shopping.
Day 08: Huaraz – Musho – Huascaran Base Camp (4200m.).
After breakfast in the hotel we will start at 7:00am approximately, along the Callejon de Huaylas to Mancos, from here we will travel to the East side to Musho, arriving to Musho after one hour drive, the Donkey Driver will be waiting for us in Musho to transport our climbing equipment’s to Base Camp of Huascaran (4200m.), after hiking up for about 4 or 5 hours we will arriving to the Base Camp and overnight Camping.
Day 09: Base Camp – Camp 1 (5300m).
After the breakfast in the Base Camp we will start hiking up to the moraine camp, sometimes rock climbing for about 3 hours to get the glacier, from here we will start climbing the glacier for about 1 hour to the Camp 1 at (5000m. from here we will have a splendid views to see different mountains ours around, overnight Camping over the glacier.
Day 10: Camp 1 – climb up to Camp 2 (6000m.)
Today, we will start at 4:00am to climb to the Camp 2, for about 5 hours approximately, in case there are other climbers, we will have to pass a little fast the part of the Channel, this part is avalanche zone, arriving to Camp 2 around 9:00am, overnight camping over the glacier at (6000m/19516ft).
Day 11: Camp 2 – climb up Huascaran summit – camp 2 (6000m.)
After the breakfast in the Camp 2 we will start climbing at 3:00am, along the this route we will enjoy the nice views of different mountains ours around and will enjoy the sunrise in the Cordillera Blanca, arriving to the Summit (6768m. around 10:00am, in the summit we will enjoy the white Mountain Range and take pictures, after stay few minutes we will start go down to the Camp 2 for about 4 hours approximately, arriving to the Camp 2 around 3 or 4:00pm, overnight camping at (6000m.).
Day 12: Camp 2 – down to the Base Camp
Early in the morning we will start go down to the Base Camp, after go down 2 hours will be arriving to the Moraine Camp, where we will have lunch, after lunch we will continue go down to the Base Camp for about 2 hours more, arriving around 3:00pm, overnight in the Base Camp at (4200m.).
Day 13: Base Camp – back to Huaraz
Late in the morning we will go downhill to Musho for about 3 hours half approximately. Where our private transport will be waiting for us to transport us to Huaraz; arriving to Huaraz around 16:00hours and transfer to the hotel, overnight in the Hotel in Huaraz.
INCLUDED IN THE PRICE:
NOT INCLUDED IN THE PRICE:
CLIMBING GEAR LIST
Dear client,
We understand how important it is for our clients to have the right equipment on their trips. That’s why we provide you with this Climbing Equipment and Gear List, which gives you a detailed inventory of all the items you need during your excursion.
We recommend to always purchasing quality equipment: we realize that this may be expensive, but it can mean the difference between reaching a summit and not.
Some (technical) equipment can be provided by Unlimited Expedition (as indicated below); please let us know beforehand if you bring these items yourself or if you would like to use Unlimited Expedition gear.
Kindest regards,
Unlimited Expedition
FEET
- Outer socks, thick wool or polypropylene - 1 pair
- Inner socks, thin silk or polypropylene - 1 pair
- Plastic double mountaineering boots – 1 pair
- Gaiters – 1 pair
UPPER BODY
- Lightweight polypropylene - 1
- Fleece jacket - 1
- Breathable windproof outer jacket, such as Gore-Tex, with hood - 1
LOWER BODY
- Polypropylene or underpants - 1 pair
- Fleece pants (full length side zippers recommended) – 1 pair
- Breathable windproof pants such as Gore-Tex – 1 pair
HANDS
- Mittens, thick fleece - 1 pair
- Gloves, polypropylene or capilene - 1 pair
- Gore-Tex wind shells for mittens- 1 pair
HEAD
- Balaclava - 1
- Baseball cap - 1
SLEEPING GEAR
- Down or polar guard sleeping bag comfortable to minus 10 Celsius - 1
PACK
- Backpack large (50+ liters) - 1
TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT
- Ice axe 70 cm
- Crampons, 12 points
- Ski poles
- Climbing harness
- Climbing helmet