Huayhuash

CLIMBING NEVADO QUITARAJU


OVERVIEW:

Duration: 06 Days/05 Nights
Highest Point: 6040m.
Route: Climbing Nevado Quitaraju
Recommended Season: June - August
Difficulty: Difficult
Number of person per Guide: 2

ITINERARY:

Day 01: Huaraz- Cashapampa 2900m. - Llamacoral 3760m.
From Huaraz we will drive to the Northeast until we reach a town called Cashapampa, Here we will meet the donkeys and the Donkey Driver, who will be waiting for us to transport our luggage in the next two days. From here, we will begin our journey walking through the Santa Cruz Valley until we reach the first camp called Llamacoral 3760m., the walking time is approximately 4 to 5 hours.

Day 02: Llamacoral- Base Camp 4250 m
On the eighth day we will begin our hike along a well-marked path within the Santa Cruz Valley, along the way we are accompanied by the magnificent view of the Taulliraju Mount.; We will also pass by two beautiful lagoons, the Ichikcocha and the Jatuncocha and next to them we observe a great diversity of wild birds typical of the Andean area. After 3 hours of walking in this valley we will take another valley known as the Arhuaycocha Valley, and from here we will walk along a zigzag path to the Alpamayo base camp. In total it will take approximately 5 hours of walking.

Day 03: Base Camp - 5450 m High Camp
From here we begin to ascend on a steeper and more demanding path, this time we take only what is necessary to the high camp, since from here we no longer have the support of donkeys and the Donkey Driver, but the support of porters and the chef who loads all the equipment and food that we will need to make the summits of Alpamayo and Quitaraju. First we cross a rocky path until we reach the glacier, then we will walk through the ice and snow, in some parts it will be steep until we reach 5450m, where we will establish the high camp, from here we can already appreciate the impressive ice wall that we are going to climb The next day to reach our final goal, the summit at 5947m.

Day 04: High Camp - Quitaraju Summit 6040m.- High Camp
Our ascent will begin at 1 in the morning, we will walk to climb and surf a crack, from here we will begin to climb the technical part on the ice until we reach the top, then as usual we will have a prudential time to rest and take many photos to start our descent through several abseils to the High Camp. The average time is about 6 to 7 hours.

Day 05: High Camp - Base Camp
After making the two summits, our descent starts very early from the high camp to the base camp, unlike the climb this time, the descent is a little easier and faster since we have less weight on it and it is not hard for us to breathe so much, so we arrive in less time and we have the whole afternoon free to rest.

Day 06: Base Camp- Cashapampa- Huaraz
On our last day we take the same path back through the Santa Cruz Valley to the Cashapampa town, here our private transport will be waiting for us to bring us back to the city of Huaraz; but before that, as part of the celebration a beer does not hurt anyone, so everyone cheers. Travel time in transport is approximately 3 hours.

WHAT'S INCLUDED:

INCLUDED IN THE PRICE:

  • All private tours, all private transport and the price system guarantees your departure and only with your team members.
  • Official bilingual guides with good manners and social behavior
  • Official mountain cooks (Our expeditions always go with guide & cook, amount depending on the amount of participants).
  • Good and varied food - best quality (vegetarian option).
  • Climbing in the Cordillera Blanca always with accredited guides, no exceptions.
  • Porters, donkeys and donkey drivers, amount depending on the amount of participants and nature of your expedition.
  • We respect working conditions and local tariffs of staff - no exploitation
  • Imported tents from Eureka, Mountain Hard ware, North face and Ferrino brand, 3 person tents for every 2 customers, 2 person tent for every single person.
  • All camping equipment and cooking/eating utensils.
  • Self inflating Matresses (Thermarest)
  • Clients carry day pack only, approx. 12 kg per client on the donkeys
  • Safety horses in case of emergency or fatigue (until 6 pax -> 1 horse, until 12 pax -> 2 horses, until 18 pax -> 3 horses …).
  • All entrance fees
  • First aid kit and oxygen bottle

NOT INCLUDED IN THE PRICE:

  • Not mentioned or additional beverages or meals in villages
  • Sleeping bag (rental US $ 7.00 per day + US $ 5.00 for obligatory laundry)
  • Breakfast on the 1st day (hotel) and dinner on the last day.
  • Tip for the staff
  • Travel accidents and health insurance
  • Return or abortion otherwise as planned itinerary: transport & possible accommodation costs (also for staff)
  • Personal mountain equipment.

WHAT TO PACK

CLIMBING GEAR LIST
Dear client,
We understand how important it is for our clients to have the right equipment on their trips. That’s why we provide you with this Climbing Equipment and Gear List, which gives you a detailed inventory of all the items you need during your excursion.
We recommend to always purchasing quality equipment: we realize that this may be expensive, but it can mean the difference between reaching a summit and not.
Some (technical) equipment can be provided by Unlimited Expedition (as indicated below); please let us know beforehand if you bring these items yourself or if you would like to use Unlimited Expedition gear.
Kindest regards,
Unlimited Expedition

FEET
- Outer socks, thick wool or polypropylene - 1 pair
- Inner socks, thin silk or polypropylene - 1 pair
- Plastic double mountaineering boots – 1 pair
- Gaiters – 1 pair

UPPER BODY
- Lightweight polypropylene - 1
- Fleece jacket - 1
- Breathable windproof outer jacket, such as Gore-Tex, with hood - 1

LOWER BODY
- Polypropylene or underpants - 1 pair
- Fleece pants (full length side zippers recommended) – 1 pair
- Breathable windproof pants such as Gore-Tex – 1 pair

HANDS
- Mittens, thick fleece - 1 pair
- Gloves, polypropylene or capilene - 1 pair
- Gore-Tex wind shells for mittens- 1 pair

HEAD
- Balaclava - 1
- Baseball cap - 1

SLEEPING GEAR
- Down or polar guard sleeping bag comfortable to minus 10 Celsius - 1

PACK
- Backpack large (50+ liters) - 1

TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT
- Ice axe 70 cm
- Crampons, 12 points
- Ski poles
- Climbing harness
- Climbing helmet

RECOMMENDED TOURS

Details

UE

ALPAMAYO AND HUASCARAN

Details

UE

SANTA CRUZ & PISCO

Details

UE

ISHINCA – URUS - TOCLLARAJU