Huayhuash

YANAPACCHA - CHOPICALQUI CLIMB


OVERVIEW:

Duration: 07 Days/06 Nights
Highest Point: 6354 m
Route: Climbing Nevado Yanapaccha & Chopicalqui
Recommended season: May - September
Difficulty: Moderate
Number of persons per Guide: 2-3

Yanapaccha and Chopicalqui mountains are located in the central Andes of South America, which are part of the Cordillera Blanca and are within the limits of the Huascarán National Park. The Yanapaccha is a mountain to which you can climb almost all year round, it is also an excellent place to do rescue courses due to the amount of cracks and climbing walls that it has. Its name comes from the word Quechua which translated means Black Waterfall. For its part, the Chopicalqui, is a mountain of 6 thousand meters that has magnificent views of either the high camp and especially from its summit, although being a mountain of more than 6 thousand meters it is easier to reach its summit and does not represent Many complications, deciding to climb these two mountains as part of your expedition could undoubtedly be your best choice in the shortest time.

ITINERARY:

Day 01: Huaraz- Morraine Camp 5000m.
 Adventure starts very early in the city of Huaraz, after breakfast we will come to pick you up at your hotel and then with our private transport we will drive northeast to the province of Yungay in the valley of Huaylas alley, from the city of Yungay We start to ascend an unpaved road until we reach the limit of the Huascaran National Park where we will register our entrance to the protected area and pay the corresponding entrance, after that we enter the LLanganuco Valley and after 20 minutes in transportation we get to see the Two beautiful turquoise lagoons, the Chinancocha and Orconcocha, which are at an altitude of 3850m., we stop to take some photos and continue our journey until we reach Kilometer 42. Once there, we will begin our trek to the moraine camp, our campsite. Travel time in transport approx. 3.5 hours and an average of 4 hours walking.

Day 02: Camp Moraine- Summit Yanapaccha 5460m.- Camp Moraine 5000m.
We will begin the ascent at 3 in the morning, the first section crossing a moraine until we reach the glacier. Then we climb a 180m wall, whose difficulty is between 50-60 °, to finally reach the summit. From the summit you will have spectacular views of several mountains and glaciers such as: Huascarán, Chopicalqui, Pisco, Huandoy and others. After your eyes delighted with these incredible views, we will begin to descend towards the moraine camp. The average ascent time is approx. 5 to 6 hours and the descent to the camp is approximately 3 to 4 hours walking.

Day 03: Moraine Camp - Chopicalqui Base Camp.
On the third day, we will return to kilometer 42, the starting point of our first adventure, and then head towards the base camp Chopicalqui, in this place we will camp, to spend the night at an altitude of 4430m. The travel time from kilometer 42 is approximately 2 to 3 hours walking.

Day 04: Base Camp 4430m. - Moraine Camp 4820m.
After a good breakfast, we will start our hike following a ridge and continue until we reach the moraine camp, although the ascent becomes a bit exhausting due to the height, weight and the sloping path, the wonderful views of the impressive mountains motivates us to continue, when we arrive at the Moraine Camp we put the tents, we eat and we have the afternoon free to rest. The travel time from the Base Camp is approximately 4 - 5 hours walking.

Day 05: Camp Moraine- High Camp 5380m.
Early in the morning we start walking and then a few minutes we walk over several moraines until we reach the glacier. Once on the glacier we will have to surf several small cracks to finally reach the 5380m high camp, where we will install our camp. The travel time is approximately 4 hours walking?

Day 06: High Camp - Chopicalqui Summit 6354m.- Moraine Camp
Today is our day of challenge since we will ascend to 6354m, which is the highest point in our expedition. We will begin our hike by averaging 1 am, ascending until we reach the ridge, before reaching the first 50 m wall and with a 50-60 ° inclination, then we reach the second 60m wall that has a 50-65 inclination °, keep in mind that the inclination always varies every year. Once these walls are made we will climb to the top where you will be amazed by magnificent views of the mountains. We have a break of 20 to 30 minutes depending on the weather to start descending to Camp Morrena. Travel time is approximately 5 - 6 hours walking

Day 07: Moraine Camp - Huaraz
On our last day, we will begin to descend to the main road, where we will finally find our private transport that is waiting to bring us back to the city of Huaraz. The transport route is approximately 3 to 4 hours.

WHAT'S INCLUDED:

INCLUDED IN THE PRICE:

  • All private tours, all private transport and the price system guarantees your departure and only with your team members.
  • Official bilingual guides with good manners and social behavior
  • Official mountain cooks (Our expeditions always go with guide & cook, amount depending on the amount of participants).
  • Good and varied food - best quality (vegetarian option).
  • Climbing in the Cordillera Blanca always with accredited guides, no exceptions.
  • Porters, donkeys and donkey drivers, amount depending on the amount of participants and nature of your expedition.
  • We respect working conditions and local tariffs of staff - no exploitation
  • Imported tents from Eureka, Mountain Hard ware, North face and Ferrino brand, 3 person tents for every 2 customers, 2 person tent for every single person.
  • All camping equipment and cooking/eating utensils.
  • Self inflating Matresses (Thermarest)
  • Clients carry day pack only, approx. 12 kg per client on the donkeys
  • Safety horses in case of emergency or fatigue (until 6 pax -> 1 horse, until 12 pax -> 2 horses, until 18 pax -> 3 horses …).
  • All entrance fees
  • First aid kit and oxygen bottle

NOT INCLUDED IN THE PRICE:

  • Not mentioned or additional beverages or meals in villages
  • Sleeping bag (rental US $ 7.00 per day + US $ 5.00 for obligatory laundry)
  • Breakfast on the 1st day (hotel) and dinner on the last day.
  • Tip for the staff
  • Travel accidents and health insurance
  • Return or abortion otherwise as planned itinerary: transport & possible accommodation costs (also for staff)
  • Personal mountain equipment.

WHAT TO PACK

CLIMBING GEAR LIST
Dear client,
We understand how important it is for our clients to have the right equipment on their trips. That’s why we provide you with this Climbing Equipment and Gear List, which gives you a detailed inventory of all the items you need during your excursion.
We recommend to always purchasing quality equipment: we realize that this may be expensive, but it can mean the difference between reaching a summit and not.
Some (technical) equipment can be provided by Unlimited Expedition (as indicated below); please let us know beforehand if you bring these items yourself or if you would like to use Unlimited Expedition gear.
Kindest regards,
Unlimited Expedition

FEET
- Outer socks, thick wool or polypropylene - 1 pair
- Inner socks, thin silk or polypropylene - 1 pair
- Plastic double mountaineering boots – 1 pair
- Gaiters – 1 pair

UPPER BODY
- Lightweight polypropylene - 1
- Fleece jacket - 1
- Breathable windproof outer jacket, such as Gore-Tex, with hood - 1

LOWER BODY
- Polypropylene or underpants - 1 pair
- Fleece pants (full length side zippers recommended) – 1 pair
- Breathable windproof pants such as Gore-Tex – 1 pair

HANDS
- Mittens, thick fleece - 1 pair
- Gloves, polypropylene or capilene - 1 pair
- Gore-Tex wind shells for mittens- 1 pair

HEAD
- Balaclava - 1
- Baseball cap - 1

SLEEPING GEAR
- Down or polar guard sleeping bag comfortable to minus 10 Celsius - 1

PACK
- Backpack large (50+ liters) - 1

TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT
- Ice axe 70 cm
- Crampons, 12 points
- Ski poles
- Climbing harness
- Climbing helmet


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